Tried & Tested: Engel Ayurpura, Dolomites
As a newly-minted fan of South Tyrol, I was delighted when – in mid-December – an invitation to the mountains fluttered into the empty editorial office at the end of an intense year of travel. What's this I see? A hotel that describes itself as Italy's first Ayurveda hotel? Hmm...let's open it up and take a closer look... Fasting? Over the infamously indulgent Christmas holidays?! I start to ponder and gradually conclude that it would indeed be a completely new experience. Alright, count me in!
As experienced by LuxuryWise's Director of Business Development, Melanie Haass
The Hotel
My eyes begin to sparkle with joy and excitement at the first sight of the Engel Ayurpura amidst the imposing mountain scenery of the Dolomites. More precisely, the hotel is located in the tranquil village of Welschnofen in the Eggental Valley near Bozen. It has nothing in common with a spa hotel, or an extravagant Indian palace permeated with incense, or anything with Buddha statues everywhere. Okay, there's a small marble elephant that greets me at the entrance, but that's the extent of its resemblance to other wellness hotspots. The building's striking, light-colored elmwood edifice can be seen from afar – a tribute to the 100-year-old elm tree that had to make way for the project, as well as the eye-catching reception desk that stands in its place today. The lifestyle chic design is extremely well done, and the view of the mountains can be seen from almost everywhere on the property. I like it a lot!
No surprise really, since the Kohler family of hoteliers has been in the hospitality industry since 1862 so they know what they're doing. The youngest Engel is the newest addition to the family and stands right next to its big brother: the Hotel Engel Gourmet & Spa, which has been attracting regular guests for many years with its Michelin-starred cuisine, traditional Tyrolean style, and extensive spa facilities.
The Concept
The calm, clean-chic interior immediately helps you decompress. Restrained natural colors in earthy tones, warm regional materials, and large windows invite you to enjoy nature and allow your eyes to wander and your thoughts to drift.
The Ayurveda program that began at the Engel Stammhaus back in 2014 has been consistently refined and culminates in a well thought-out, holistic concept at the new Engel Ayurpura. The whole thing blends in a little with the neighboring hotel, but a spot at the Engel Ayurpura is not available without an Ayurveda treatment for at least one guest per room. The adults-only boutique hotel, designed for only 30 guests, is too small and customized regarding food and treatments and demand is very high! But sometimes only one half of a significant pair wants to go through the program. In that case, it could be an option for travel companions who are willing to compromise: stay at Ayurpura together, one or the other enjoys all the consultations, treatments, and meditations during the day, and then they have dinner together at Engel Gourmet. The participating partner eats according to their Ayurveda plan, which includes dietary considerations from a doctor, and the other can freely enjoy any meal they wish. It might take some discipline, but it's doable.
Detoxing guests at Engel Ayurpura will search in vain for a bar but will instead discover the Tea Lounge with a fireplace and a vast library. Alternatively, those feeling "strong-willed" can head over to the Engel Gourmet Hotel and treat themselves with an Ayurvedic (and of course non-alcoholic) cocktail.
The Rooms
I marvel for five nights at the view of the surrounding mountains from one of the twelve Pura rooms. I'm extremely grateful, because that's a relatively long time for a LuxuryWise research trip to a single hotel. We normally do it in one to three nights, depending on the distance. However, it quickly becomes clear that in this special case I'll need more time. When you take a closer look at their Ayurveda offers, the program for beginners (which I definitely am!) starts at four days. And of course, for you dear readers, we never cut any corners.
Floor-to-ceiling windows, lots of warm light, generous space, super-comfortable and very high-quality furnishings, a rain shower, and cozily heated hardwood floors make your soul feel as if it belongs here. By the numbers, it's about 30 square meters (322sq. ft.) plus a covered balcony, complete with armchairs and blankets for snuggling. My tip: request one of the corner rooms (for example Rm. #205) for clients. That way the view and balcony are even bigger and more magnificent!
One puzzling thing is that there's no tea kettle, especially given that hot water and tea are the only things I'll be drinking for the next few days. But wait a second – why is there a cushy hot water bottle in the closet? Aha! I finally piece it together when I realize that this has indeed not been forgotten: there are these amazing water taps throughout the property (which, by the way, I'd love to have at home), that provide boiling, chilled, sparkling, and still water at the touch of a button. And Engel Ayurpura even has special Grander water, a naturally treated water known for its revitalizing effects.
Unfortunately the higher room categories are fully booked so I can't investigate the loft or one of the two design suites. Too bad for me, but of course a great start for the hotel that just opened at the end of November!
The loft on the top floor has five meter (16.4ft.) high ceilings. In addition, it's quite close to the large Pura Vista Lounge, the large relaxation area with infrared loungers. The two design suites (pictured) are the most comfortable option. Here, your clients can rest easy on luxurious beds from Hästens, the bed supplier to the Swedish royals. Let's not forget to enjoy the mountain view from the free-standing bathtub, or the shortest possible route to the sauna, because there's one included in the 50 square meter (538sq. ft.) suite.
For clients who love tradition, there's also the option of staying in one of the Classic Suites in South Tyrolean style at the Engel Gourmet & Spa Hotel instead, while they can still experience the Ayurveda program and food at the Engel Ayurpura.
The Ayurveda Regimens
My stay gets off to an exciting start because, unlike your clients, I arrive not yet knowing which treatment I'll be doing. A quick glance at the program quickly shows me that the only option available for me is the beginner's, most likely because of the brevity of my stay. Admittedly, I have a small inner sigh of relief that it won't be the Buchinger Fast, but the small detox package "Get to Know Ayurveda." Oh, hi Ayurveda – nice to meet you! From now on it's time to let all the stress drift away...
We start with a personal consultation with Dr. Mishra, who has been running the Ayurveda team at the Engel Gourmet together with hotel owner Carmen Kohler for the last five years. His highly professional support has significantly elevated the initial Ayurveda program, which had more tender beginnings, to a top notch – but also more intense – level. In addition to Ayurvedic cuisine and treatments, he's integrated pulse diagnostics and light medical interventions such as (attention, sensitive readers!) enemas. Consultations with the Ayurveda and pulse diagnosis specialists are held in English, but if need be, Kohler is also an Ayurveda specialist and is happy to arrange translations and explanations.
By the end of the consultation Dr. Mishra knows where my problems lie and I know which of the three Dosha types I am, which theoretically determines when I should ideally eat which foods with which spices. The kitchen then follows suit and creates my personal and custom menu. Dr. Mishra also recommends certain yoga positions and natural remedies for my ailments. The treatment plan for the next few days is also tailored to my needs, from various massages such as Abhyangam (an Ayurvedic detoxification massage) and Udara Abhyangam (an abdominal massage), to a range of castings such as Kathi Basti (lumbar vertebrae), Nabhi Basti (navel), and Shirodhara (forehead).
No worries: you don't need to remember all these terms. The key message is that your clients will easily spend up to three hours per day enjoying whatever constellation of special treatments is prescribed for them. Numerous professional therapists and twelve treatment rooms are available for this at Engel Ayurpura.
There is also an hour of yoga in the morning, and the hour before dinner is dedicated to meditation. All of that is already a good chunk of the day, which gives you the rest of the time to focus on yourself, enjoy the tranquillity of the hotel and its surroundings, and just take it easy. Ms. Kohler chats away and tells me that most guests like to keep to themselves and wind down at first, but then after a few days they join others for dinner at the social table, or come to the bar in the Engel Gourmet Hotel in the evening – no doubt to try the aforementioned non-alcoholic Ayurvedic cocktails, of course.
The Wellbeing Areas
There's plenty of room for relaxation and finding yourself in this small boutique hotel. The sauna is located in a cute, detached wooden house and offers a good mix of gentle sauna and steam baths. The temperatures aren't too extreme, but you can still work up a sweat faster thanks to the higher humidity (and it's supposed to be healthier too). The outdoor pool next to it is 15 meters (50ft.) long, heated to a cosy 32°C (89.6°F), and filled with salt water, so it doesn't have that gross chlorine smell. The sun terrace overlooking the pool is a little too crisp for me in mid-December, but I do enjoy the spacious relaxation room overlooking it, where every guest can find a spot on an armchair, chaise longue, or even a large bed. In the evening, I enjoy the fantastic view of the glowing pink mountain peaks from the Pura Vista Lounge on the top floor from a comfortably infrared-heated and ergonomically shaped wooden lounger. Nice!
Guests of the Engel Ayurpura can also use the relaxation area of the Engel main building (but not vice versa). A short, covered passage leads you to the neighboring building. It's here where sauna fans will find their nirvana, as the menu is long and varied. Infusions at 90°C (194°F), a bio-sauna, a steam bath, ice showers, a spacious relaxation room and lounge, as well as an indoor pool. However, clients that have more intense treatments than me should defer more to the gentle saunas due to the circulatory strain.
The Culinary
As mentioned, the diet prescribed by Dr. Mishra for each guest is formulated into a custom menu by specialist chef Claudio Denti. The menu itself usually consists of several larger and smaller bowls, but let's be clear here to avoid any dumb tropes – an Ayurveda retreat doesn't have to mean giving up good food, it's more about enjoying really healthy food. Even if I have to google the dishes in my individual plan every single day, it's honestly insanely delicious. So much the better that each dish is made from top-notch regional ingredients. On top of that, Maestro Denti is happy to share his special knowledge in the cooking classes offered so that guests can take delicious and invaluable know-how back home with them to stay healthy.
Forthcomingly, breakfast might be a harder sell. I can imagine how the exclusively light and carbohydrate-free selection such as cooked fruit, soups, or oatmeal may be difficult for some guests. Depending on dietary recommendations, however, egg dishes are also allowed. That's not a problem for me personally because I usually just have a tea or quick espresso for breakfast, but it's something to consider for your clients. The focus is on lunch, which always starts with a light soup followed by two vegetarian courses, which are mainly vegan but sometimes have fish, depending on the diet. Dinner is lighter, also with a soup and a small main course. Good to know: everything can be reordered at any time, so nobody has to go to bed hungry. Bedtime is usually pretty early thanks to the combination of detox and relaxation with the fresh mountain air.
If only one of two guests has a treatment plan, everyone can still enjoy "their" cuisine and eat together at the Engel Gourmet Hotel. The hotel has had a Michelin star since 2011, which has just been reconfirmed for 2024, and the chefs have been preparing detox dishes under the guidance of Claudio Denti for years.
The Region
The daily events are naturally structured around the extensive treatment plan, but it's South Tyrol, and the region is simply far too beautiful to ignore completely. My recommendation: book the client two to three days in addition to the duration of the Ayurveda package.
Within half an hour, I'm whizzing into the cozy Italian-Austrian town of Bolzano. The pedestrian zone in the old town will satisfy the need for shopping, and one or two nice things end up in my basket. The alleyways of the small market are particularly popular with amateur chefs, but a word of forewarning: as delicious as the regional culinary treats can be, you'll really have to restrain yourself and persevere... Another half an hour and you're in the next small historic town: Brixen. It's the oldest town in South Tyrol and has numerous exhibitions, so it's the perfect destination for a relaxed stroll. Merano is just 45 minutes away by car, and if you head south, you can reach Lake Garda in just two and a half hours, Venice in three.
I spend a day to explore, and set off on a tour over the snow-covered passes and through the romantic mountain landscapes of the Dolomites Nature Park and UNESCO World Heritage Site. At certain stops I keep running into small Asian tour groups, such as at the frozen Karersee lake, just a 15-minute drive from the hotel. The first pass takes you into the Fassa Valley, where there's already a bit more going on with ski tourism. One more pass, the 2,239-meter-high (7,346ft.) Pordoi Pass, has a wonderful view of the next valley, and then you're in the famous Olympic village of Cortina d'Ampezzo. My favorite spot of the tour is Lake Dobbiaco (pictured). It's so misty and enchanted that I almost think I might spot a little mountain troll, but alas, I suppose he's hibernating!
The Winter Sport Offshoot
While the specialists at Engel Ayurpura recommend that, in addition to their individual plan, guests devote themselves to a more peaceful sporting activity such as hiking or forest bathing, I can't honestly help but reach for my snowboard when the snow is so readily at my doorstep. There's a gondola lift right in Welschnofen to the cute little Carrezza ski area, and I treat myself to a four-hour ticket, which is not exactly cheap at 46 euros. I could use it to ski as far as the Karersee lake and even use a connection to the Fassa Valley from there, but I'm supposed to take it easy... Instead, I enjoy the perfectly groomed slopes of the local mountain, including a loooong forest descent into the village. I have it practically all to myself – a snowboarder's dream!
If your clients want a little more fun shredding some powder before or after their treatments, the Carrezza ski area is part of the Dolomiti Superski, which has 450 lifts and 1,200 kilometers (746mi.) of slopes for the greatest possible fun. My wholehearted tip: recommend it to them before their Ayurveda regimen at Engel. That way they can still inhale the delicious South Tyrolean cuisine without a guilty conscience, and enjoy the pampering and rejuvenation after a few days of strenuous activity.
The Take-Away Effect
At check-in they have this deck of cards that have all these different encouragements written on them. The backs of all the cards read "You are amazing," but the front of the one I draw from the pile reads "You can change the world." Oh my! I re-interpret the saying in my Ayurveda experience to "Only I can change my own world," since otherwise I'm afraid I'll get wound right back up again. I also receive this button at check-in to wear whenever I want which tells staff and hotel guests know when I'm not in the mood to chat and want to enjoy my peace and quiet. Part of me wishes I could take this button with me on flights with overly talkative seat neighbors (readers excluded, of course!), but a girl can dream...
All kidding aside, both the hotel team and I are aware that every guest must inevitably return to their (more or less harsh) reality after their stay here. But if you take just a few small things with you, not only is it good for those around you, above all it's a good thing for yourself. Dr. Mishra explains to me that Ayurveda is the oldest medical science documented in writing. Interesting! Of course, you can't cure everything with it, but at least you can take care of quite a few things without having to endure any invasive methods. At the end of the day, health begins in the mind. Privately, this resonates with me since I'm going through a few things at home, but I immediately subscribe to this!
My new favorite karma law since my trip to the Engel Ayurpura and the Ayurveda world is the law of humility: "You have to accept things in order to change them." The law of giving and hospitality should be recommended to many hoteliers and their teams: "Our behavior should reflect our thoughts and actions." But this is something you definitely don't need to say to the team at the two Engel hotels, because they embody it!