Tried & Tested: Bumi Kinar, Bali


My Asia heart is doing somersaults – I’ve just added a sparkling new highlight to my upcoming Indonesia trip. Bumi Kinar – a hidden jungle gem, freshly expanded in 2024 with sleek, design-forward villas – is set to be my sanctuary for two blissful nights. Still flying under the radar, this boutique beauty promises stylish seclusion, lush surroundings, and that rare kind of Bali magic you usually only hear about in whispers. Will it deliver the magic? Stay tuned – you’ll want to read this one …

As experienced by LuxuryWise Director of Business Development Melanie Haass

Touchdown Bali

After my long-haul with Turkish Airlines – and a grumpy Gentlemen’s Club with a twisty saxon drawl seated all around me – I owe my sanity to two things: a delicious glass of Argentine red and my super-duper noise-canceling headphones. Luckily, immigration in Bali is a breeze – if you’ve done your homework. With all the paperwork sorted in advance, it’s straight to the e-gate: scan your passport, flash your jet-lagged, ghostly face at the camera, and voilà – you’re practically in Indonesia. One quick QR scan at customs and I’m officially welcomed by a full blast of tropical humidity. Rainy season may technically be over, but my weather app shows a lineup of thunderstorms for days. Still, as the saying goes – when angels travel, it doesn’t rain. And sure enough, not a single drop touches me (during daylight hours).

The hotel lies just 40 kilometers (25 miles) from Denpasar Airport, smack in the island’s lush interior. Sounds quick, right? Not quite. In the ten years I’ve been away, Bali’s traffic has become pure madness. Depending on the time of day, the ride takes a laid-back 60 to 90 minutes. But no complaints here: I’m in a brand-new SUV with Wi-Fi, enjoying the included private transfer and watching the motorbike mayhem whiz past, safely tucked into my air-conditioned cocoon, shaking my head in amused disbelief.

The Hotel

Tucked juuust far enough away from the chaos to exhale, this blissed-out little hideaway – home to eight fresh-off-the-drawing-board villas – is perched right in the beating heart of Bali. Which also happens to be its spiritual epicenter. Technically, you’re only about ten minutes (give or take a scooter jam) from the ever-busy hub of Ubud. But let’s be real: calling it "busy" is being polite. If you’ve seen Bali in its pre-Instagram glory days, you know – the Island of the Gods is now more like the Island of the Crowds. I pull in after dark, slightly dazed from the trip, but already buzzing for the morning view – the one I’ve been fantasizing about – right through the giant glass wall of my villa. And honestly, even the arrival is kinda magical: gliding through lush parkland, past a pint-sized temple-for-your-soul, and on to the reception. My first steps? Straight into the resort’s heritage zone – a beautiful time capsule of Balinese craftsmanship and quiet elegance. But then, plot twist: I pass through two gates and suddenly I’m in a different dimension. Think Marty McFly meets Eat Pray Love. It’s like stepping into a spiritual DeLorean – poof – and I’ve landed in the brand-new modern wing! Sleek, minimal, and deeply chill. The old soul and the new vibe don’t just coexist – they vibe together. It’s a contrast that clicks: one part tradition, one part tomorrow, and 100% Bali.

And that sleek new wing? That’s why I’m here – and the star of this little story. Just opened in summer 2024, the modern section (yep, that’s the one in the pic) features the oh-so-stylish Skylight Villas. All clean lines, high design, and natural light. For the sake of full disclosure: the heritage side of the resort dates back to the late ’90s, with ten partially renovated villas, some of them big enough for your clients' whole crew with up to six bedrooms. Both sections – old soul and new shine – share the revamped public areas: a restaurant that hits all the right notes, a cozy breakfast café, and a spa that practically whispers "treat yourself." It’s a concept that caters to different tastes and comfort zones – perfect whether you’re into wood carvings and tradition or skylights and sleek tiles. Or both.

And then there’s the name. "Bumi" means earth, "Kinar" stands for light — together they form BuKi, as everyone affectionately calls it. A name that fits like a sarong: grounded, radiant, and a little bit cosmic. You can feel the balance in everything here – and you can definitely see it. Especially in that slightly spaceship-chic architecture. The showstopper: a 25-meter-long (82 ft.) infinity pool that casually steals the whole scene. Perfectly positioned in the lush green surroundings, it’s the kind of place where time melts, phones get forgotten, and you float somewhere between sky and earth.

The Villas

Cards on the table: for someone with a minimalist soul when it comes to Design – and a deep love for clean lines and calm energy – these new Skylight Villas are an absolute dream. And I’m not talking "nice hotel room" feeling – I mean floating jungle sanctuary dream. There are eight of them in total, each a generous 115 square meters (1,238sq. ft.), built for two, and completely bathed in light. Actually, scratch that – "bathed" doesn’t quite cut it. It’s more like soaked in daylight from every angle. You feel like you’re living smack in the middle of the jungle – minus the occasional what-was-that-sound panic many of us ladies tend to have about the local wildlife. Including sleek full-length and expansive floor-to-ceiling slide-open glass walls with a wraparound balcony. The showstopper in here? A massive skylight right over the bed – the villa’s signature element and definitely its crown jewel. And yes, if you’re light-sensitive like me: it’s fully blackout-able with the push of a button. Hallelujah!

Honestly, they’ve thought of everything. You’ve got a spacious, light-filled bedroom complete with a powder room-slash-walk-in closet. The bathroom? Double sinks, a huge rainforest shower, a deep soaking tub (yep, also under a skylight), and a Japanese toilet. Makeup and outfit check? Not a problem. Big mirror at the sink, lit vanity mirror, bonus magnifying mirror, and even a full-length mirror in the closet zone. No excuses here. Add a huge living room with plush lounge sofas, a proper dining table for in-villa meals, a big flatscreen with Netflix, and a full sound system. (P.S.: No TV in the bedroom – and I love that choice.) And just when you think that’s it, it gets better: a guest bathroom, Nespresso machine, kettle with all the fixings, a complimentary minibar stocked with soft drinks, and even a steamer to smooth out your suitcase wrinkles. In other words: nothing’s missing.

Oh, and the villas sit in a separate, guest-only section of the resort – pure peace and quiet guaranteed. My personal fave? Villa 103. They all have the same layout and view, but 103 hits the sweet spot: not right in front of the pool or restaurant, but still nice and close. Call it introvert adjacent.

The Culinary Options

When it comes to food, this resort is all about feeding the soul – with a view. The Jingga Restaurant & Bar sits right next to the infinity pool, offering around 80 seats and a front-row view of lush, jungle-drenched Bali. There’s just this one restaurant – but honestly, that’s all you need. The menu hits a sweet spot between local Indonesian favorites and crowd-pleasing international dishes, all beautifully plated, farm-to-table fresh, and served with lots of love.

🎶 Aaaaall by myseeeelf… 🎶 Yep, ladies of a certain age (hello Gen Xers and fabulous 40+) might hear that tune in their heads. Because let’s face it: when travel pros are doing fieldwork, solo dining happens more often than not. In my case? Totally solo. Thanks to my late arrival, I have the entire terrace – and the full attention of the staff – all to myself. (Well… me and my MacBook.) And I’m so not mad about it. I soak up every second of this me-time moment, gazing across the glowing infinity pool into the velvet darkness of the jungle beyond. It just clicks – the setting, the vibe, the whole thing. And those shrimp from night one were so good I ordered them again the next night. Along with a few other tasty bites – and a signature cocktail that hit just right.

There’s also a small café tucked by the pool in the heritage section – ideal for a lazy coffee or a light afternoon snack. This is where breakfast is served. Now, to keep it real: the breakfast spread isn’t exactly extravagant. But personally? It had everything I needed. One day I went Balinese with Nasi Goreng, another I opted for Western-style with an omelet and Bircher muesli. Always fresh OJ. Always a barista-made espresso macchiato. Always full, always happy. That said, if your love language is massive breakfast buffets, you might find this one a little underwhelming.

Sensory Impressions

How the stay feels

Fragrant

Yay – no Asian sandalwood incense overload in sight! Instead, the air is filled with the wonderfully fresh scent of jungle and river. This is nature’s version of chill.

Chill Mode

Still low season – which means the resort, the silence, and the jungle are basically all mine. Peak me-time: chirping birds, endless views, and zero regard for my calendar.

Clash of Styles

Here, tradition literally meets modern design as you stroll from the Balinese heritage section of the resort straight into sleek, contemporary spaces with serious wow factor.

Nature Mode

And judging by my surprise guest, I’m not the only one enjoying it. Luckily, it’s just a cute little squirrel keeping a curious eye on my evening dip.

The Service

I’ve been a die-hard fan of that signature, low-key Asian service style for as long as I can remember – way before my LuxusInsider days, back when I worked for a tour operator with a heavy focus on Asia. It’s that quiet kind of hospitality that just gets you without ever being in your face. And at BuKi, I got to experience it all over again. Let’s roll the highlight reel … Straight to "Over-50 Eye Heaven": The menu arrives – and so does a light-up magnifying glass. No words, no asking, just there. Day one, early morning: a warm smile and the classic "Is everything alright with your room?" I casually mention a flickering ceiling light – and poof, it’s fixed. I mention I’d prefer a splash of light, fresh milk for my espresso – it magically appears in my minibar that very afternoon. Breakfast to go? Say less. My pre-tour Nasi Goreng arrives right on time, perfectly packed, travel-ready, still warm. Zero stress, full flavor. And when I return later, a buggy is already waiting to gently glide me from the entrance back down to my villa – no big show, just a quiet ride through tropical green and birdsong.

I didn’t make it there myself during my (way too short) stay, but it’s one of those sweet little touches that just fits – and anyone who’s ever been to the Maldives will know the vibe: An outdoor cinema nestled in the garden of the heritage wing. Starry skies above, grass underfoot, jungle sounds all around – and a classic film lighting up the night. Bali magic meets movie night.

The Public Areas

No doubt about it: the crown jewel of the resort is the jaw-dropping infinity pool, seemingly floating above everything with a view that goes on forever. But the rest of the place doesn’t exactly play second fiddle. The sleek, modern wing welcomes guests with a bright, gallery-style exhibition hall. Right now – and through mid-July – it’s hosting a photo exhibit by a young Balinese talent perfectly echoing the hotel’s spirit: nature, light, and life. A little later, I spot a hidden little treasure – a petite but oh-so-stylish library, stocked with handpicked reads and glossy coffee table book gems – including a few from from Taschen’s iconic collection. Naturally, there’s also a secret jungle-view terrace. A dreamy little reading nook if there ever was one.

From the gallery, a walkway stretches out like a flying saucer hovering above the landscape and a gentle stream and leading to the yoga pavilion – with, you guessed it, views to swoon over. A staircase then curves down past the spa, restaurant, and bar, all the way to the villas.

The Spa

The Balinese just get it. Even a so-called "simple" one-hour Balinese massage has me quietly chuckling with joy. It all kicks off with a short, personal consultation – friendly, professional, and totally free of hustle. Then comes the first ritual: a lovingly executed foot wash that already melts the first layer of stress right off. And then … game on. With trained hands, rhythmic flow, and just the right mix of pressure and presence, I’m plunged – blissfully – into a deep state of ahhhh. My slightly travel-weary alabaster body is incredibly grateful. No rushed "you can get dressed now" moment. Just a gentle landing with fragrant tea and time to float back to Earth. Love it! The price? Sure, it’s not your 10-dollar quick fix in downtown Ubud – but for a five-star sanctuary like this, it’s more than fair. Especially when every minute is packed with craft, calm, and quiet care.

The spa at Bumi Kinar offers four treatment rooms, including two couples’ suites with tubs. The menu blends Asian-inspired rituals with Western-style holistic wellness. If you like things tailor-made, there’s also the option of putting together a fully personalized wellness program – treatments included. And if massages alone don’t do it for you: there’s a small gym on the heritage grounds, a long lap pool, and regular yoga and Pilates classes in the open-air pavilion. Or go all-in with a personal trainer and your own custom session for next-level Namaste.

The Experiences

My half-day excursion takes me – in the aforementioned comfy SUV with private chauffeur – to the nearby Kinar Village Organic Farm. Nearby, of course, is relative: as a Hamburg City girl, I’d say 20 kilometers and well over an hour on the road stretches the definition of "just around the corner" a bit. The farm – owned by the same team behind BuKi – is a sprawling, green paradise set on 13 hectares, promoting sustainable, organic agriculture in collaboration with Bali’s Udayana University.

This isn’t just where organic rice and garden-fresh veggies are grown for the resort’s stylish plates – it’s also a living research lab. Agriculture students from Bali’s Udayana University are testing ways to swap out harsh pesticides for nature-powered alternatives – less chemical warfare, more bug diplomacy. One insider even claims that the university’s lead professor, who also runs the farm, can now read without glasses – thanks to a diet rich in worms, not lasers. As for me? I think I’ll stick to my plan and get my eyes lasered. And yes, this farm goes well beyond farm to table – it’s also farm to wellness. In collaboration with the globally known brand Doterra, they’re crafting not only food but also premium essential oils. Nature, reimagined.

For guests sticking around a bit longer, the resort offers plenty of ways to soak up Bali beyond the sun lounger. How about a morning trek through the neighboring rice fields – complete with an own little temple along the way? And for those who want to go all in: tailor-made cultural deep dives, gallery strolls, museum visits, or wellness sessions are just a request away. Think yoga, Pilates, or breathwork – whatever helps you find the inner zen.

What we Loved

  • Had to laugh out loud: the spare toilet paper rolls came labeled as the “Back-up Plan.” Genius. 10/10 my kind of humor.
  • Bathroom bliss, Japanese edition: high-tech hygiene with a side of wow every single time.
  • Skylight No. 2 above the tub? Yes, I’m now officially bathing under the stars. Wish upon included.
  • River rushing, cicadas chirping – nature’s playlist hits different. Spotify could never.
  • Finally, a walk-in closet with shelves that aren’t just for show. Real storage. Imagine that.
  • Thanks to solid walls and the soothing rush of the river, the neighboring villa can keep sipping their herbal tea without ever catching a note of my playlist.
  • Kick off your high heels! Both Ubud and the resort take a pretty chill approach to dress codes.
  • Style meets thoughtfulness: before heading out, I get a gentle reminder to bring a hat for sun protection – because caring can look good, too.

Not so Much

  • Towel dilemma: Hooks in the bathroom? Check. But by the sink between the bathroom and the closet? Nada. Nowhere to hang a thing.
  • Ubud on foot? Hard pass. The road’s no place for a casual stroll – but a Grab or Uber shows up in under five minutes and sets you back just three to four euros or dollars.
  • Island traffic is no joke. In Ubud, Sundays in particular are a test of zen-level patience.
  • Surprisingly low ATM density in the area – did not see that one coming.
  • No complaints as a solo traveler – but let’s just say the single lounge chair on my terrace wasn’t exactly inviting company.
  • Wi-Fi? Flawless – smooth streaming all around. Except at Loka Kafe during breakfast, where my inbox suddenly went zen. Coincidence? Or a gentle push toward digital detox, Balinese style?

In a Nutshell

Let’s face it – Bali hasn’t been a well-kept secret in ages. Ever since the pandemic sent digital nomads and remote-work refugees island-hopping, the place has been buzzing. Turns out, Bali hasn’t lost its sparkle for the high-end traveler – you just have to know where to look. Tucked away from the buzz – but close enough for a night out in Ubud – Bumi Kinar is one of those rare boutique gems that still captures the island’s quiet magic. This elegant hideaway offers what today’s travelers really crave: calm, character, and contemporary authenticity. Blissfully removed from the Insta frenzy next door – but still just a stone’s throw from culture, greenery, and a nice dinner in Ubud. Whether it’s solo creatives on retreat, wellness-obsessed couples, or honeymooners with taste – anyone who loves modern aesthetics with a local twist will feel instantly at home. And one final note from yours truly: if anyone behind the "I Love Bali" tourist tax team happens to read this – how about funneling a bit of that love into fixing up the roads?

Trade Contact: Kianti Subowo, Sales & Marketing Manager

Visit the Bumi Kinar Website